Mountain chalets in Slovakia

Simple mountain chalets are popular type of accomodation in Slovakian mountains – Low Tatras, Greater Fatra, Little Fatra, Polana or even the Tatras.

Mountain chalet in the Greater Fatra

In the Choc Mountains

Some of the shelters are newly built in order to host hikers. These are small solid wooden buildings with well arranged interior - sleeping place, heater and cooking stuff (pots, cups, etc.). Latrine is a real luxury there :) However, there are also many chalets which are former shepherds' huts modified for tourism purposes. Some were solidly renovated, the others are in poor condition.

Most of the chalets are free of charge. After spending a night in such a place we are obliged to leave it in the previous condition. What does it mean in practice? Clean up after yourself, take your garbage, keep the latrine clean (if one exists) or chopp the wooace for the fireple. In fact, it is very important to comply with these rules in every place ;)

In the Greater Fatra

Most chalets have access to the fresh water but you should not expected the tap and sink inside ;) It means that there is a spring near the cottage. Sometimes the sign shows the way to the spring, however in most cases we have to rely on a good map with marked waters. Some shelters are located in a considerable distance from the water (even several kilometers) or the closest springs are seasonal – be prepared for that.

Planning accommodation in a particular shelter check if the place is open to public. A part of the huts is under the supervision of some tourism organizations which hold the keys to the buildings. You need to get the key before you set off on the trail.

Hiking with an overnight in mountain huts is a great adventure. Sleeping in simple conditions (sometimes being squeezed like sardines in a can), chopping wood, drying wet clothes on the strings stretched inside, shared cooking and finally a conversation with casual roommates have unforgetable charm :)

Enjoy!

Tatra Mountains

Low Tatras

Low Tatras

Choc Mountains

Low Tatras

Greater Fatra

Low Tatras

Greater Fatra

Polana Mountains

Macrophotography: round-leaved sundew

Photographing the round-leaved sundew is not a quite easy thing. But don't be afraid, you do not have to be a professional with years of experience and very expensive equipment for macrophotography. The difficulties lie in the fact the majority of people simply do not notice it ;)

So firstly, you need to locate the sundew – its tiny leaves are almost whole green and it is hard to spot them among the bogs. I have spent more than an hour during a photographic tour on the wetlands before I found the first specimen and took a photograph of it. I must add that it wasn't my first search.

As for the shooting, should you choose the morning time when the light is not too sharp and there are still morning dew drops on the hairy leaves. Under a cloudy sky, you can make use of an artificial light source - a flash or headlamp. A plain white sheet of paper reflecting daylight may also be useful. Of course, interesting pictures can also be taken in the rain - the best is drizzle with tiny water droplets which gather on the leaves. Almost each leaf contains undigested remains of insects - sundew is real carnivorous plant!

You can tak macro photos by almost any type of camera - from small compact devices with often very good macro mode to SLR cameras with special lenses for macrophotography. Most of the following images were taken with SLR Pentax K-3 with the Soviet lens Helios 58mm type M42 attached to the camera with the appropriate adapters and rings for macrophotography.

Where to find the sundew? It can be often found in bogs, marshes and fens. The pictures where taken on the peat bog near Nowy Targ (Lesser Poland). Sundews grow there next to the observation platform, half a meter from the railings.

If you want to learn more about macrophotography and see those amazing plants – you are warmly welcome to our photo-tours and workshops.

Author: Andrzej Śliwiński

Nature reserve - Bór na Czerwonem

Recently we have been discovering the charms of picturesque place which is the Nature Reserve Bór na Czerwonem. It is located in Podhale, Lesser Poland. The place has the true recreational potential - Nordic walking and cross country trails are led here, it can also be the target of a bicycle tour or a stroll. Some come here at odd hours and roam around with a camera ;) However, the nature reserve is primarily the place where extremely interesting species of plants are protected.

The area has been protected since 1925 but it was given the status of a nature reserve in 1956. Bór na Czerwonem is peatbog reserve, in which the raised bogs ecosystem (supplied with rainwater) and surrounding it humid forest communities are protected. This is an example of peatlands typical for Orava-Nowy Targ region. 

The name (czerwone = red) the reserve owes to algae, which in autumn assume a red color. But we can see here many more interesting species typical for the wetlands such as sphagnum moss, Cranberry, cotton-grass, different types of pine or fascinating common sundew. If these names do not say anything to you - just come here and see for yourself what a beautiful landscape they form :)

Kumoterki - traditional sleigh race

Kumoterki - traditional sleigh race

Kumoterki is the name of the sport discipline popular in Podhale region in Poland. The team (a couple and a horse) tries to get the highest score in a sleigh race. Usually a man is teaming and a woman acts as a ballast ;) But sometimes the roles are switched. The oval-shaped track is approx. 400 meters long and the audience is standing around it. 

Another contest is skiring where skiers teaming horses compete. In the second version called ski-skiring one person is riding a horse and a second one - the skier is only trailed. Everything is very spectacular and exciting. 

The competition is preluded by Parada Gazdowska (can be translated as Farmers Parade). It is also some kinde of contest but a bit more static ;) Farmers dressed in the regional costumes ride in the decorated sleigh pulled by bedecked horses. During the parade they are scored by the jury. The referees mark horses, harnesses, sleigh and the owners. It is a great chance to see the traditional highlanders outfit and hear the regional music.

When and where can we watch the contests?

The competitions are held in Podhale region during the carnival. You can watch them every sunday in a different village: Kościelisko, Poronin, Biały Dunajec, Bukowina Tatrzańska, Ludźmierz and others. The best idea is to ask in the visitors centers in Podhale - they will inform you about the dates of the contests. Some information you can also find on the official website: www.kumoterki.pl (only in Polish). 

Polana Mountains - the geological curio

Did you know that the biggest extinct volcano is located in Slovakia? For me it was a great surprise, that there is something so unusual and interesting close to my home. Nowadays the name of this volcano is Polana.

Slopes of the Polana Mountains, Slovakia

The Polana are medium-high mountains with forests, clearings, fields and lovely hamlets. The highest peak is Polana at 1458 m ASL. We named this place Slovak Tuscany ;) You can hike here (lot's of marked trails!), do some cycling trips or simply stay in one place and enjoy tranquility. Maps of the region you can buy in bigger towns or cities like Banska Bystrica.

The Polana Mountains are a geological curiosity. They used to be over 2500 m ASL high stratovolcano which finaly exploded and destroyed thyself. Nowadays we can find there interesting rocks (andesite or tuff - consolidated volcanic ash) and extraordinary rock formations. The mountain range is protected by Polana Protected Landscape Area. 

Waterfall Bystre

At the foothills of the Polana lies a town of Detva known for its folklore. Detva is a manufacturing center of famous Slovak music instrument fujara - shepherd's overtone fipple flute. It has really unique shape. You can see it in Detva museum or during one of the folk festivals which are held here. Some of them are even the international events. 

Detva is also known for its carved and painted wooden crosses which are the decoration of tombstones at local cemetery. They also stand as a roadside chapels. 

Man playing the fujara at folk festival in Detva.

There is (at least!) one more interesting place situated in the vincinity of the Polana. It is the wooden Protestant church from 1726 located in village Hronsek. Its wooden construction with severe interior can hold up 1100 worshippers. The site was enetered onto the UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage List.

I highly recommend this lovely and little known region!

Farm stay, Slovakia, The Polana Mountains. 

The Tatra Mountain Guide

This time I will write something private. Probably I want to boast a bit ;) So... Finally, after an almost 3-year course, I passed exams and became the Tatra mountain guide. I am so happy, because now I can use all the hiking experience and geography knowledge I have, to show others the small part of the world which are the Tatras.

www.sliwinski-foto.eu 

Who is the Tatra mountain guide? It is a person who loves mountains, has vast experience and knowledge about the region and is entitled to lead private and organised tours. There are several levels of guidance – the first one allowes to lead tours along the marked trails, the others have permission for the climbing routes.

Course. During the course we learned not only the topography of the Tatras, but also about the nature, history and etnography of the region and surrounding area both in Poland and Slovakia. We had lots of lectures, coach trips, hiking tours, climbing and first aid trainings. But it was not enough – the most important thing was our own work.

I am very lucky because my husband is a guide too (the Tatra mountain guide and UIMLA guide) so we could talk about the mountains for hours ;) He also comes from the highlanders family so I had a chance to learn about the local culture and traditions from the inside.

Peolple. During the course I met wonderful people! We all are in different age, come from different parts of Poland, have different jobs and hobbys. But the thing that links us together is the passion for mountains. I am really greateful for the time we spent together.

Future. Maybe we will go for a trip together? ;)

Monika

P.S. Don't hesitate to ask any questions about the Tatra Mountains and surrounding area!

The Black Stork

The black stork is a real treat for the birdwatching lovers. Why? This bird is one of the rarest representatives of the quite popular in Europe stork family. Unlike his brother – the white stork, it keeps off human settlements.

The black stork

Its name comes from the colour of plumage which is mainly black with a green and violet sheen, except for the white 'bottom'. Legs and bill has strong red colour.  

The stork inhabits wetlands – it builds nests on strong and big trees in the vicinity of lakes and swamps. The nest can weight even 1000 kilograms! 

The picture above was taken in the Podhale region, next to our house;) Around the Tatras, on both the Polish and Slovak side you can watch these beautiful and rare birds. There are some places where you can meet them regulary.

Stork - the sign of spring

Early morning (6 AM), the end of April. We were coming from sunrise photography session. Suddenly such a view apperad to us:

A flock of storks.

After a while we saw a pair:

A pair of storks.

Storks are very popular in Poland. They come here after the winter time and leave us in autumn. Sometimes you can observe them walking through fields (like we saw), flying or sitting in the nest. We even have such a belief in Poland that if the first stork you see in the spring time is flying you will be travelling much that year. When you see it in the nest you will rather stay at home. But what if the stork is walking? It foretells lots of hiking or Nordic walking? ;)

In the Tatra Mountains (next to our home) we can also meet a black stork. It is quite rare and not so social, I mean it leves in a distance from the built environment among trees and bushes. I had a great chance to see it  for the first time this year. 

Shepherding in the Tatra and other Polish mountains

Autumn morning, I'm sitting in the kitchen and sipping coffee. Suddenly I hear gentle buzzing, with time the sound becomes clearer. I look out the window and see a flock of sheep moving along the road towards the nearby meadows. Small bells tinkle hung on the neck of some sheeps. Ah, the owner is leading his herd to the pasture. Grazing season, which traditionally runs from April 23 (St. Wojciech day) to September 29 (St. Michael the Archangel day) is already completed - the sheep descended from the Tatra mountain pastures. Now they are driven only on the foothill meadows.

 

Pastoral customs, traditions, techniques and equipment came to the Polish mountains from the south. They were strongly influenced by Vlachs - nomadic people coming from the Balkan area, who in the early Middle Ages began centuries long pilgrimage to the north. Nomads assimilated with the inhabitants of the Carpathian range and taught them new skills. Pastoral way of life came upon a breeding ground - difficult natural conditions (harsh climate and poor soil) favoured more animal husbandry than cereal farming. Shepherding started to develop in the Tatra and other Polish mountains. 

 

What did the traditional pastoral season look like? Each owner wanted to send his sheep to the mountain pasture for summer. It would entail leaving the household for several months, what was impossible. Therefore the function of baca (the main shepherd) was established – a man to whom farmers entrusted their flocks for summer time grazing. Baca was choosing some helpers – younger shepherds and set off to the mountain pastures owned by the village. Walking to the pastures called redyk could last even several days, depending on how far from the mountains the village was located. On a pasturage shepherds lived in a wooden hut called bacówka. Apart from grazing they were protecting sheep from predators or getting lost and manufacturing products ​​from sheep's milk. The best known are three types of cheese - oscypek, bundz and bryndza. Grazing was terminated with autumn redyk - sheep descent from the mountains. It was a very solemn event, accompanied by singing and music. Then the main shepherd settled up with sheep owners and returned them their flocks. Children welcoming redyk were receiving little pieces of cheese in the shapes of animals. Many traditions and superstitions associated with the pastoral season come from a borderline between religion and pagan beliefs. They are subject of a number of ethnographic research nowadays.

What about shepherding in the Polish mountains today? History of individual pastoral areas and its influence on contemporary sheep grazing caused diversification of shepherding in different regions of Poland. Idyllic view with sheep in the mountain pastures is not as common as it was in the past. Nevertheless we can still meet shepherds or even visit their huts while hiking on the mountain trails in Gorce, Beskids or Pieniny. In some areas (eg in the Bieszczady Mountains) the aim is to renew the tradition of pastoralism.

In the Tatra Mountains, where shepherding had been completely liquidated due to the nature conservation in the 70's, it was decided to restore grazing. Decisive influence had cultural issues - perennial relationship between the highlanders and the Tatras and richness of traditions and customs as its effect. In 1981, shepherding returned in a form of so-called Cultural grazing of sheep and cattle in the Tatra Mountains. What does it mean? Under agreements with the Tatra National Park highlanders can graze sheep on some of the clearings. They must, however, obey several rules including speaking in a dialect, wearing the original highlander outfit, whether be assisted by traditional herding dogs – the Polish Tatra sheepdogs. The are many more requirements, but thanks to them we can learn more about old customs and try products prepared according to original recipes.

Extremely interesting event is the Carpathian Sheep Transhumance organized for the first time in 2013. It is an international project aimed at meeting people involved in shepherding across the whole Carpathian range linked together with an exchange of experiences. This is the traditional wander of shepherds and flocks through the mountain area of the Carpathian countries - Romania, Ukraine, Poland, Slovakia and Czech Republic. The trail is about 1,200 kilometers long (10-15 kilometers a day) and takes place between May and September. The wander is accompanied by various events.

Dusk, the day is slowly coming to the end. I hear the tinkling sound again ... The sheep are coming back to the pen for the night. 

TEXT WAS PUBLISHED ON LINK TO POLAND WEBSITE.