Polana Mountains - the geological curio

Did you know that the biggest extinct volcano is located in Slovakia? For me it was a great surprise, that there is something so unusual and interesting close to my home. Nowadays the name of this volcano is Polana.

Slopes of the Polana Mountains, Slovakia

The Polana are medium-high mountains with forests, clearings, fields and lovely hamlets. The highest peak is Polana at 1458 m ASL. We named this place Slovak Tuscany ;) You can hike here (lot's of marked trails!), do some cycling trips or simply stay in one place and enjoy tranquility. Maps of the region you can buy in bigger towns or cities like Banska Bystrica.

The Polana Mountains are a geological curiosity. They used to be over 2500 m ASL high stratovolcano which finaly exploded and destroyed thyself. Nowadays we can find there interesting rocks (andesite or tuff - consolidated volcanic ash) and extraordinary rock formations. The mountain range is protected by Polana Protected Landscape Area. 

Waterfall Bystre

At the foothills of the Polana lies a town of Detva known for its folklore. Detva is a manufacturing center of famous Slovak music instrument fujara - shepherd's overtone fipple flute. It has really unique shape. You can see it in Detva museum or during one of the folk festivals which are held here. Some of them are even the international events. 

Detva is also known for its carved and painted wooden crosses which are the decoration of tombstones at local cemetery. They also stand as a roadside chapels. 

Man playing the fujara at folk festival in Detva.

There is (at least!) one more interesting place situated in the vincinity of the Polana. It is the wooden Protestant church from 1726 located in village Hronsek. Its wooden construction with severe interior can hold up 1100 worshippers. The site was enetered onto the UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage List.

I highly recommend this lovely and little known region!

Farm stay, Slovakia, The Polana Mountains. 

Bieszczady Mountains still magic

Bieszczady is a mountain range in the Polish-Slovak-Ukrainian borderland. The most characteristic element of the region’s landscape are mountain pastures – vast grassy areas above the upper tree line which change their colour depending on the season: from white in winter to green in spring and summer and to red and orange in autumn. The pace of life in the villages in Bieszczady is different – slower…

After several years of absence, we were going to the Bieszczady Mountains being slightly skeptical. During previous visits we saw how mountains formerly considered to be one of the wildest in Poland, became a popular tourist destination. But it turned out that we had to explore the Bieszczady Mountains again and they surprised us;) Coming from Cracow we slowed down entering the snow-covered road in the first village in Bieszczady. White road accompanied us for the rest of our trip. The traffic is small here and we felt as though we were in another world.

Eastern part of the Polish Bieszczady Mountains (with the Bieszczady National Park) is the most visited part. I remember pictures my grandmother showed me - tourists with a huge backpack during multi-day hikes wandering across mountain meadows. Nowadays, you can meet lots of day-trips enthusiasts on the trail. Most often they ascend Tarnica (the highest peak of Bieszczady), Mala Rawka and Wielka Rawka or Połonina Caryńska and Wetlińska. Popularity of the region has grown thanks to the increase of its accessibility - improvement and construction of new roads and the development of public transport. Nevertheless being in the Bieszczady Mountains, you can still find yourself "at the end of the world" ... simply choose the appropriate time and place.

After the summer season Bieszczady become empty and life comes back to its normal slow rhythm. Hiking trails are traversed only by tranquility lovers who come here to contemplate nature… and life too. Shelters become a meeting place of people who share a true love for the mountains. But the one who is looking also for a peaceful summer in Bieszczady shall visit the western part of the mountains. Slightly lower but equally beautiful mountains do not attract so many tourists. One can safely say that still this is wild land. 

Bieszczady is also a way of life. Many people found here a place where their dreams come truth – they run atmospheric farm stays and restaurants, art studios, workshop houses, mountain shelters, horse farms, natural food farms and stores. In these places the doors are open for guests.

One of these places we found by chance. After a few words of welcome we were invited into the house and treated with herbal tea and delicious sloe liqueur. Our hosts are experts in herbal medicine and natural products. They also run various types of workshops to pass on their knowledge and skills to the others. Adults will learn here the ins and outs of baking leavened (sourdough) bread or making liqueurs. Children can try to bake bread rolls or make fancy bracelets. Everything is accompanied by the atmosphere of hospitality and family warmth.

Traditional Lemko wooden cottage

Visiting the Bieszczady you can stay in the mountain refuge – it is a great option for socializing people, who want to make new acquaintances. Second option is accomodation in an antique cottage. Wooden cottages have been restored and furnished anew by the owners, who gave them a unique atmosphere. This atmosphere is also created by the people themselves with their activities, passions, stories ... Interesting may also be stay in a horse farm or night in the barn. During your stay you can also sleep in regular guest rooms, cabins or guest houses. 

It was hard to leave the Bieszczady Mountains - say goodbye to interesting people we met, leave the place where time slowed down. For sure we will visit Bieszczady again soon :)

Useful tips:
- trails are easy and medium-hard
- mountains are generally available during whole year (in winter in some places the avalanche risk may be a problem)
- you shouldn't make light of the weather conditions - snow, strong wind, freezing cold, rain, storms may surprise you even in those not very high mountains
- you can buy maps in local shops, tourist information points, shelters 

Wooden Boyko cottage

Old Jewish cemetery

Herbs

Tarditional wood coal 'factory'

When to visit Polish and Slovak mountains?

What is the best time to visit Polish and Slovak mountain areas? What should you take under consideration choosing the time of your trip?

Think about:

- weather conditions typical for each region and the time of the year,

- specific characteristics of the region,

- purpose of your trip (sightseeing, hiking, skiing, spa, partying, etc.)

- your personal preferences (you prefer peace and quiet or you don't mind crowds of tourists, etc.).

Spring

The weather in spring is unpredictable (it is unpredictable in the mountains in general;). You may be positively surprised or disappointed. 

SKIING: If you come for downhill skiing the snow conditions can let you down a bit. Slopes placed in the higher parts of the mountains may be still well prepared because of the low temperature and usage of the ski guns. Those are ski resorts in the Tatra Mountains (especially in Slovakia) and around and in the Low Tatras. The other areas are rather closed at that time.

On the other hand spring may be the best time for alpine skiing lovers. If the winter was snowy enough there may still lie great amounts of good snow. The best areas for alpine skiing are the Polish Tatra Mountains (in Slovakia only few areas are available for skiers). The trails are open to skiers until the special regulation is issued by the Tatra National Park.

 

HIKING: Early spring in the lower mountains may be hard for hikers because of the melting snow. In the higher mountains you can still encounter winter conditions. Hiking in the Tatra Mountains, Low Tatras, Velka and Mala Fatra, Babia Góra – remeber about avalanche risk! The most amazing thing about spring is nature waking up to life! Only in that time of the year you will see meadows covered with violet carpets of crocuses – wonderful! Other typical for mountain valleys flowers are yellow kingcups (marsh marigolds).  

CULTURAL EVENTS: Spring time is not rich in cultural events, especially early spring. The most important holiday is Easter. Religion is still vivid among Poles and thanks to this you may see and take part in all celebrations. The best option is to spend Easter with local family i.e. at one of the farm stays. 

NOTICE: 1^st-3^rd  May is a so called „long weekend” in Poland according to national holiday. Therefore in all tourist destinations (especially in the Tatra Mountains) are crowds of people. If you have possibility try to plan your trip to Poland at another time. 

Summer

Summer in Poland and Slovakia is variable. It is often rainy in July, in August the weather is more stable. That is why many people choose the end of summer for spending holidays in the mountains. 

HIKING: Summer is a perfect time for hiking in any mountains in Poland and Slovakia. The only thing you have to be aware are thunderstorms and heat waves – better plan your route taking into account the weather forecast. The same is with cycling tips.

CULTURAL EVENTS: Summer abound in cultural events like festivals, concerts. All tourists resorts prepare some attractions for visitors. Even in small villages you may take part in some interesting festivities. In Poland many of them concern the traditions of  mountain dwellers. You may find information about current events at local tourist information offices. The one festival I would like to mention is International Festival of Highland Folklore in Zakopane – it gathers artists-highlanders from all over the world (official website).

NOTICE: Summer time is a vacation time what means that some popular tourist destinations may be overcrowded. For example in Zakopane and Polish Tatras you will meet lots of people while at the same time in Slovak Tatras tourist traffic will be reasonable. The same is with parts of the Pieniny Mountains or Bieszczady. It does not mean that you should not come to Poland and Slovakia in summer – you just have to choose the places carefully reading about them or asking local people. I.e. villages of Beskid Niski, Eastern Bieszczady are still a refuge of peace and quiet.

I suggest to avoid visiting popular tourist destinations in Poland on 15^th August (religious holiday and “long weekend”). It is also hard to find attractive accommodation at that time if you don’t book in advance! Also in Slovakia in the middle of August people organize “Národný výstup na Kriváň” = “National ascending the Mountain Kriváň” in the High Tatras – imagine hundreds of people climbing one mountain… ;) 

Autumn

Fall is also a capricious season of the year. Generally the beginning of autumn may be beautiful – it is still not so cold and the weather is sunny. But as time goes by the weather becomes more unpredictable. Sometimes is dry and sunny, leaves on the trees turn yellow and the mountain landscape is amazing. But it may also be cold and rainy…

HIKING: Autumn is my favorite season for hiking trips in Poland and Slovakia :) Only then you can see the amazing views in the morning, when the mists remain in the bottoms of valleys and mountain peaks protrude above them. Only then you walk through colorful forest with yellow, orange, red and green around you. The Bieszczady Mountains in Poland is one of the favorite destination for hiking lovers - these mountains are famous for their beautiful autumn scenery. In Slovakia the same is with Velka Fatra (Greater Fatra). Also Pieniny in Poland and Slovak Paradise in Slovakia are beautiful at that time – colors of autumn look wonderful among white limestone rocks!

In the Tatra Mountains you may already meet winter conditions with snow in higher parts of the mountains. Such a conditions are often very difficult and dangerous for hikers – you can easily slip on a rock and fall down the wall. Special equipment like crampons and ice ax may be useful. Hiking trails in the Slovak Tatra Mountains are not accessible to public between 1 November and 15 June.

If you plan several-days trekkings with sleeping in a tent – remember that the temperature may fall below zero!

CULTURAL EVENTS: There are still some interesting cultural events in the beginning of autumn but later you can attend some events only in bigger tourist resorts.

Winter

Sometimes it begins in November, sometimes in January ;) It is not certain that Christmas will be white and frosty in towns and villages but in the mountains probably yes. 

SKIING: Skiers may be almost 100% certain that slopes will be covered with snow due to artificial snowmaking. More about skiing areas in Poland you can read here and here. Alpine skiing and backcountry skiing depends on the depth of snow. Last 2 years were perfect for this kind of activity. Remember – before going higher in the mountains check avalanche risk level! 

HIKING: Special equipment like crampons and ice ax may be useful in the Tatra Mountains. In lower mountain ranges hiking poles and snowshoes (optionally) are enough. Remember about taking avalanche kit while hiking in the Tatra Mountains, Low Tatras, Greater and Lower Fatra, Bieszczady, Babia Gora.

CULTURAL EVENTS: Winter is a high season that is why it is full of any cultural events.

NOTICE: Famous ski resorts may be a bit overcrowded - many people love spending winter vacations in the mountains :)

Enjoy! :)

Hidden in woods. Backcountry (skiing) trip.

More and more I enjoy backcountry nordic skiing! Of course the begginings are difficult and you feel strange with heels free all the time. But after a while you appreciate that the equipement is so light! It is a perfect option for those who are tired with crowds at downhill areas but still not convinced to more extreme alpine touring. You can hike on skis over the hills and through the woods and explore new sites. Suddenly it turns out that in your immediate surroundings there are plenty of interesting places to find and visit.

Yesterday we did a wonderfull trip - it took us around 4 hours. The same trip you can do in summertime on a mountain bike. We made a circle from Brzegi to Rynias and back to Brzegi. Rynias is located between Jurgów and Łysa Polana, 3 km from village Brzegi. It is on a border between Podhale and Spiš regions.

Rynias is a hamlet (a small settlement in a rural area) hidden on a glade in a middle of a forest and offering a beautiful panorama of Slovak and Polish Tatras. You can distinguish many famous peaks like Hawrań, Lodowy, Gierlach (the highest Carpathian peak) and the highest summit in Poland – Rysy. 

In a central place of the clearing you will find a chapel located in an old house from 19^th century. The house, like all houses in Rynias, is made of wood and was built using log construction. Life slows down here, you hardly meet people… the only sound accompanying us was dogs’ barking. Several years ago the well-known Polish actor Michał Żebrowski built house in Rynias, but it seems to be inhabited quite rarely.

There are many "new" places to discover - thanks to finding a new type of outdoor activity you see places in a different way. Something what seemed unattractive turned out to be an interesting trip destination. Wow, there are still so many thins to see! :)