Showing posts with label Pieniny Mountains. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pieniny Mountains. Show all posts

Monday, March 24, 2014

Shepherding in the Tatra and other Polish mountains

Autumn morning, I'm sitting in the kitchen and sipping coffee. Suddenly I hear gentle buzzing, with time the sound becomes clearer. I look out the window and see a flock of sheep moving along the road towards the nearby meadows. Small bells tinkle hung on the neck of some sheeps. Ah, the owner is leading his herd to the pasture. Grazing season, which traditionally runs from April 23 (St. Wojciech day) to September 29 (St. Michael the Archangel day) is already completed - the sheep descended from the Tatra mountain pastures. Now they are driven only on the foothill meadows.
 
Pastoral customs, traditions, techniques and equipment came to the Polish mountains from the south. They were strongly influenced by Vlachs - nomadic people coming from the Balkan area, who in the early Middle Ages began centuries long pilgrimage to the north. Nomads assimilated with the inhabitants of the Carpathian range and taught them new skills. Pastoral way of life came upon a breeding ground - difficult natural conditions (harsh climate and poor soil) favoured more animal husbandry than cereal farming. Shepherding started to develop in the Tatra and other Polish mountains
 
What did the traditional pastoral season look like? Each owner wanted to send his sheep to the mountain pasture for summer. It would entail leaving the household for several months, what was impossible. Therefore the function of baca (the main shepherd) was established a man to whom farmers entrusted their flocks for summer time grazing. Baca was choosing some helpers – younger shepherds and set off to the mountain pastures owned by the village. Walking to the pastures called redyk could last even several days, depending on how far from the mountains the village was located. On a pasturage shepherds lived in a wooden hut called bacówka. Apart from grazing they were protecting sheep from predators or getting lost and manufacturing products ​​from sheep's milk. The best known are three types of cheese - oscypek, bundz and bryndza. Grazing was terminated with autumn redyk - sheep descent from the mountains. It was a very solemn event, accompanied by singing and music. Then the main shepherd settled up with sheep owners and returned them their flocks. Children welcoming redyk were receiving little pieces of cheese in the shapes of animals. Many traditions and superstitions associated with the pastoral season come from a borderline between religion and pagan beliefs. They are subject of a number of ethnographic research nowadays.

What about shepherding in the Polish mountains today? History of individual pastoral areas and its influence on contemporary sheep grazing caused diversification of shepherding in different regions of Poland. Idyllic view with sheep in the mountain pastures is not as common as it was in the past. Nevertheless we can still meet shepherds or even visit their huts while hiking on the mountain trails in Gorce, Beskids or Pieniny. In some areas (eg in the Bieszczady Mountains) the aim is to renew the tradition of pastoralism.

In the Tatra Mountains, where shepherding had been completely liquidated due to the nature conservation in the 70's, it was decided to restore grazing. Decisive influence had cultural issues - perennial relationship between the highlanders and the Tatras and richness of traditions and customs as its effect. In 1981, shepherding returned in a form of so-called Cultural grazing of sheep and cattle in the Tatra Mountains. What does it mean? Under agreements with the Tatra National Park highlanders can graze sheep on some of the clearings. They must, however, obey several rules including speaking in a dialect, wearing the original highlander outfit, whether be assisted by traditional herding dogs – the Polish Tatra sheepdogs. The are many more requirements, but thanks to them we can learn more about old customs and try products prepared according to original recipes.

Extremely interesting event is the Carpathian Sheep Transhumance organized for the first time in 2013. It is an international project aimed at meeting people involved in shepherding across the whole Carpathian range linked together with an exchange of experiences. This is the traditional wander of shepherds and flocks through the mountain area of the Carpathian countries - Romania, Ukraine, Poland, Slovakia and Czech Republic. The trail is about 1,200 kilometers long (10-15 kilometers a day) and takes place between May and September. The wander is accompanied by various events.

Dusk, the day is slowly coming to the end. I hear the tinkling sound again ... The sheep are coming back to the pen for the night

TEXT WAS PUBLISHED ON LINK TO POLAND WEBSITE.

 

Thursday, November 7, 2013

When to visit Polish and Slovak mountains?


What is the best time to visit Polish and Slovak mountain areas? What should you take under consideration choosing the time of your trip?

Think about:
- weather conditions typical for each region and the time of the year,
- specific characteristics of the region,
- purpose of your trip (sightseeing, hiking, skiing, spa, partying, etc.)
- your personal preferences (you prefer peace and quiet or you don't mind crowds of tourists, etc.).

Spring

The weather in spring is unpredictable (it is unpredictable in the mountains in general;). You may be positively surprised or disappointed. 

SKIING: If you come for downhill skiing the snow conditions can let you down a bit. Slopes placed in the higher parts of the mountains may be still well prepared because of the low temperature and usage of the ski guns. Those are ski resorts in the Tatra Mountains (especially in Slovakia) and around and in the Low Tatras. The other areas are rather closed at that time.
On the other hand spring may be the best time for alpine skiing lovers. If the winter was snowy enough there may still lie great amounts of good snow. The best areas for alpine skiing are the Polish Tatra Mountains (in Slovakia only few areas are available for skiers). The trails are open to skiers until the special regulation is issued by the Tatra National Park.
 
HIKING: Early spring in the lower mountains may be hard for hikers because of the melting snow. In the higher mountains you can still encounter winter conditions. Hiking in the Tatra Mountains, Low Tatras, Velka and Mala Fatra, Babia Góra – remeber about avalanche risk! The most amazing thing about spring is nature waking up to life! Only in that time of the year you will see meadows covered with violet carpets of crocuses – wonderful! Other typical for mountain valleys flowers are yellow kingcups (marsh marigolds).  

CULTURAL EVENTS: Spring time is not rich in cultural events, especially early spring. The most important holiday is Easter. Religion is still vivid among Poles and thanks to this you may see and take part in all celebrations. The best option is to spend Easter with local family i.e. at one of the farm stays

NOTICE: 1st-3rd  May is a so called „long weekend” in Poland according to national holiday. Therefore in all tourist destinations (especially in the Tatra Mountains) are crowds of people. If you have possibility try to plan your trip to Poland at another time. 

Summer


Summer in Poland and Slovakia is variable. It is often rainy in July, in August the weather is more stable. That is why many people choose the end of summer for spending holidays in the mountains. 

HIKING: Summer is a perfect time for hiking in any mountains in Poland and Slovakia. The only thing you have to be aware are thunderstorms and heat waves – better plan your route taking into account the weather forecast. The same is with cycling tips.

CULTURAL EVENTS: Summer abound in cultural events like festivals, concerts. All tourists resorts prepare some attractions for visitors. Even in small villages you may take part in some interesting festivities. In Poland many of them concern the traditions of  mountain dwellers. You may find information about current events at local tourist information offices. The one festival I would like to mention is International Festival of Highland Folklore in Zakopane – it gathers artists-highlanders from all over the world (official website).

NOTICE: Summer time is a vacation time what means that some popular tourist destinations may be overcrowded. For example in Zakopane and Polish Tatras you will meet lots of people while at the same time in Slovak Tatras tourist traffic will be reasonable. The same is with parts of the Pieniny Mountains or Bieszczady. It does not mean that you should not come to Poland and Slovakia in summer – you just have to choose the places carefully reading about them or asking local people. I.e. villages of Beskid Niski, Eastern Bieszczady are still a refuge of peace and quiet.
I suggest to avoid visiting popular tourist destinations in Poland on 15th August (religious holiday and “long weekend”). It is also hard to find attractive accommodation at that time if you don’t book in advance! Also in Slovakia in the middle of August people organize “Národný výstup na Kriváň” = National ascending the Mountain Kriváň” in the High Tatras – imagine hundreds of people climbing one mountain… ;) 

Autumn

Fall is also a capricious season of the year. Generally the beginning of autumn may be beautiful – it is still not so cold and the weather is sunny. But as time goes by the weather becomes more unpredictable. Sometimes is dry and sunny, leaves on the trees turn yellow and the mountain landscape is amazing. But it may also be cold and rainy…

HIKING: Autumn is my favorite season for hiking trips in Poland and Slovakia :) Only then you can see the amazing views in the morning, when the mists remain in the bottoms of valleys and mountain peaks protrude above them. Only then you walk through colorful forest with yellow, orange, red and green around you. The Bieszczady Mountains in Poland is one of the favorite destination for hiking lovers - these mountains are famous for their beautiful autumn scenery. In Slovakia the same is with Velka Fatra (Greater Fatra). Also Pieniny in Poland and Slovak Paradise in Slovakia are beautiful at that time – colors of autumn look wonderful among white limestone rocks!

In the Tatra Mountains you may already meet winter conditions with snow in higher parts of the mountains. Such a conditions are often very difficult and dangerous for hikers – you can easily slip on a rock and fall down the wall. Special equipment like crampons and ice ax may be useful. Hiking trails in the Slovak Tatra Mountains are not accessible to public between 1 November and 15 June.
If you plan several-days trekkings with sleeping in a tent – remember that the temperature may fall below zero!

CULTURAL EVENTS: There are still some interesting cultural events in the beginning of autumn but later you can attend some events only in bigger tourist resorts.

Winter

Sometimes it begins in November, sometimes in January ;) It is not certain that Christmas will be white and frosty in towns and villages but in the mountains probably yes. 

SKIING: Skiers may be almost 100% certain that slopes will be covered with snow due to artificial snowmaking. More about skiing areas in Poland you can read here and here. Alpine skiing and backcountry skiing depends on the depth of snow. Last 2 years were perfect for this kind of activity. Remember – before going higher in the mountains check avalanche risk level! 

HIKING: Special equipment like crampons and ice ax may be useful in the Tatra Mountains. In lower mountain ranges hiking poles and snowshoes (optionally) are enough. Remember about taking avalanche kit while hiking in the Tatra Mountains, Low Tatras, Greater and Lower Fatra, Bieszczady, Babia Gora.

CULTURAL EVENTS: Winter is a high season that is why it is full of any cultural events.

NOTICE: Famous ski resorts may be a bit overcrowded - many people love spending winter vacations in the mountains :)

Enjoy! :)